Tourism in China: Wish you were here!

Huangguoshu Waterfall, Guizhou Provice, China

At first, this photograph is about two things: aesthetics and a darn good back story. The massive waterfall (largest in Asia) in the background contrasts dramatically with the antics happening in the foreground. This combined with the vibrant colors really draw the observer into the scene (click the photo to see a larger version). Too, at a cursory glance, these folks seem like part of a show. But upon closer inspection (check out the man's pressed trousers and glasses), it's clear they are probably someone's grandparents - tourists! - horsing around in rent-able traditional garb.

Most importantly, (and this is why it's one of my favorites photographs) this photograph reveals some interesting characteristics about China that in the face of tire-tariffs and a weak dollar (well, even before that, let's face it) we neglect. It hints at a natural grandeur and beauty impossible to to imagine. At the same time, it expresses something intimate: a silly element to an older couple's sense of humor. I would venture to say I experienced this sort of refreshing joviality in my interactions with people throughout the country - this willingness to act goofy or make jokes at the expense of one's self for a laugh.

Importantly, the photo also gives a peep the thriving internal market for tourism, which includes path-side vendors who rent period costumes in which tourists can be photographed. (In addition to Ming-style grannies, I saw silk-robed teens and all manner of anachronistic ridiculousness... all over the place). However, in July on a Friday, hundreds of Chinese visited this waterfall; I didn't see any Westerners. China, despite its welcome capitalist market and vast offerings in the trade world (sure, it'll take our $ for investment and manufacturing) has yet to really profit from basic tourism. Yes, despite the Beijing Olympics.

The proof is in the pudding (no, not in a statistic put out by the People's Republic): try to find a postcard in Shanghai. I dare you. (And this with the World Expo 2010 coming up). All I'm saying is that someone's missing out...

**To read about my visit to Guizhou, see Wild Wild West of China. To check out links for tourism in Guizhou, go to China Tourist Maps and click GuiZhou. To be wowed by China's nature offering, check out BBC's documentary "Wild China" (awesome) at Amazon.

Wandering the Piedmont and Alpine towns of Italy

The regional train from Bologna to Turin (Torino) takes about 4.5 hours. About an hour before reaching Turin, the Alps become visible in the distance. The outskirts of the city reveal its recent industrial history (Turin is home to Fiat, Nutella, among other things). But the center of town has all the charm of a large, "European" city with a wealth of history and culture defining and shaping its uniqueness.
We "discovered" Turin one afternoon as we looked through guide books of Italy, trying to determine our weekend destination. Capri.. Elba... Tuscany? Then our eyes fell upon the Lonely Planet page called "off the beaten path." Turin, it suggested, was - for better or worse - still largely ignored by the touring public and should not be overlooked. Generous aperitivi offerings, we read, uncrowded tourist attractions (the Shroud of Turin), lovely views of the Alps. It sounded intriguing so we booked a hostel.

Day one of our weekend was dedicated to walking the city. Discoveries - not listed in tour books - abounded: a 2nd century AD Roman theater at the foot of the famous Duomo, modern art hanging on the sides of buildings and featured in squares, royal guards in uniform (costume-like uniform), lovely little churches with candle-lit Friday services sung in Latin. And, as touted by Lonely Planet, the aperitivi (Italy's version of tapas) were incredibly generous - overwhelmingly so. But at the end of every westward facing street loomed the snow-capped Alps.

As much as we loved Turin, the suggestion of mountains posed such an enticement that we made plans to leave the next day. See full photo album of Torino.

When we said "we want to hike" in unison, the woman in the train station's tourist office - who likened the ability of my friend and I to speak in perfect unison about our wishes for the weekend to the nephews of Donald Duck - randomly suggested Oulx. Oulx? We'd never heard of it. Sounded fun... We took the print out of B&Bs and made reservations at the first one we called.

The magic that Oulx - and the town Sauze d'Oulx, just above - nearly defies description. We took the regional train west into the mountains. The trip took about an hour and half. The higher we climbed, the more astounding the landscape. Our B&B, run by a young Italian couple, was simply a condo, which we had to ourselves, located near the center of town. A bus took us up higher into the mountains where it was suggested we look for hiking trails. The town we ended up in, Sauze, was where - we discovered that day - most of the Olympic 2006 Winter Games took place.
Being the only tourists in town, we enjoyed the full attentions and hospitality of the (mostly) British expats who worked there. The hike we did took us nearly to the top of Triplex, a mountain in the Via Lattea (Milky Way), which is renowned for its fantastic ski trails. The day ended with a large mug of hot chocolate by a fire and later a dinner at The Falcon - an excellent restaurant run by an English couple who transplanted to Sauze a couple decades ago. See full photo album of the Alpine towns.

Following the "unbeaten" paths (finding off-season tourist destinations) in Italy is the way to go. My friend and I learned, in the mountains, what it was like to truly have our breath taken away.

Tortured Contrasts

An old woman sits on a hill situated slightly west of Port Salut. A crop of dying sugar cane surrounds her and her rusty tin hut, which is no larger than a spacious outhouse. She sits facing away from this scenery, toward the road. She has a panoramic view of the southern Caribbean but not desire or ability to enjoy it. Only a few other thatched-roof huts speckle the landscape; each has a stunning coastal view and a resident blinded by poverty and structural violence. Haiti has stretches of coast with little or no development. The few beaches near more populated, waterfront towns are usually destroyed or literally covered with trash. With recent improvements to infrastructure (better bridges, paved roads, electricity) and slow but steady economic growth, the facts about this devastated Caribbean island could change. Miles of empty, turquoise water do not promise change any time soon, though. Even with some real achievements in national monetary policies and with GDP growth creeping ever higher, the government must still face major socioeconomic challenges. Human rights violations remain Haiti's greatest plague. This lingering and gruesome quality of a long-unstable government is painfully visible everywhere in the country and creates a stark contrast to the dazzling colors and uninterrupted panoramas.

a study in silhouettes

more from Ile-a-Vache

a visual taste of Vache

This is the west coast of the island of Ile-a-Vache -- the bay called Abaka.
The private beaches of the private resort. We were the only ones around to enjoy the Harry Belafonte blasting from my iPod speakers and see this beautiful sunset.

A water spout formed over Les Cayes -- on our return voyage we were doused by a good tropical rain storm. The spout died when it hit land.

island of the COW

Imagine an island with tall sand-stone cliffs, enormous chandelier cacti, long white sand beaches, clear blue water, ~800 inhabitants and two secluded resorts. Go to one of these resorts and imagine yourself the only guest there, aside from your two companions. The staff-to-guest ratio is 5-1 and the food and atmosphere exquisite.

The island is Ile-a-Vache, several miles south of the Les Cayes coast. The resort mentioned is Abaka Bay, which faces west toward the mountains near Port Salut. Nick, Alex (an Ethiopian MINUSTAH guy) and I were the only guests at the water front hotel on Saturday night. The weather was perfect Caribbean Spring.

The GOOGLE IMAGES map shows the island, just to the south of Les Cayes (the patchy sign of life on the Haitian coast). Abaka Bay is the first cove on the western side of the island.
I think that the photographs rather speak for themselves so I'll let them.