Saturday, September 30, 2006

Play-Time, a Luxury


Paved roads, highways, and well-kept country lanes crisscross America's landscape. We don't think twice about getting into sports cars and low-riders before zooming off to our next destination. Ruts and rocks pose no threat to a smooth ride. Aside from clean water, this is the easiest thing to take for granted.

For some, in certain parts of the world, a paved road is a gift. The Taiwanese government bestowed such a gift on the people of Les Cayes, Haiti and the surrounding areas. Driving from town to the beach or over to the airport is a breeze now.

Fr. Marc and those who work with him - in their efforts at Pwoje Espwa - bestow food, shelter, clean water, education and spiritual guidance on hundreds of Haitians. After a time, the children who live at Vilaj Espwa come to take their next meal for granted - a miraculous thing when, if still living with their relatives or parents, they would be lucky to eat once a day.

To step foot onto the farm called Vilaj Espwa is to walk into an oasis surrounded by a tired and desperate land. Kids laugh, run, and play. When they are making mischief, it means they are healthy - this is a very good thing.

Thursday, September 28, 2006

The Perfect Subject


These kids were as enthralled with having another visitor to hang out with as the visitor was to have such beautiful subjects. When children with eyes like these look up and ask when you'll be back, the answer is unquestioningly, "soon."

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

"Mommy, I wasn't lost -- I knew where I was!"


We all piled into the family car and headed out to see our cousins in southern Maryland. I guess I was little over 5-years-old. The side of my family we were visiting - the more Italian-Sicilian side - laughed and talked and ate with a gusto that enthralled my young sensibilities. My jolly older second-cousins smothered me into their ample chests and the more youthful third-cousins sucked me into their whirlwind of energy. After food, the kids decided to troop off into the wooded expanse in the back of the house. An adventure!

Hours must have passed before my mother found me - scooped me up and made a scene about where I'd gone, how long I'd been gone and about how EVERYONE was so scared for us! I looked at her with genuine confusion, and with my hands on my hips retorted, "Mommy, I wasn't lost -- I knew where I was!" Nearly two decades later, I find myself stepping out into an unknown world once again and releasing the grip of a hand that would protect me.

September, 2006: 4-am and the rain was pouring down in sheets - some nasty fringe weather from Hurricane Florence or Gordon. Despite the torrents of water, the airplane departed on time and made its way south to Miami. The connection time between flights was tight - 35 minutes to make the 10-am flight to Port-au-Prince. Walking into the waiting area at gate 17 was like walking into another world - a no-man's-land stuck between East Coast city life and Haiti.

The Haitian travelers around me sat in animated conversation with their neighbors or stared blankly at nothing. Pacing with apprehension, I made a few phone calls to ascertain the whereabouts of my fellow travelers who were to join me on this leg of the journey. As I heard the phrase "we're stuck in North Carolina" coming through the earpiece, my mother's parting words roared in my head, "if anything happens to the others - don't go to Haiti alone, whatever you do."

The portly gate attendant blinked at me when I asked to be moved to a later flight. My bag was on its way to Port-au-Prince and I either went with it at 10-am or not at all. Gulp. Ok.

The plane made it safely to the tarmac in Haiti's capitol city. Customs was a breeze. Theodore, the rickety old porter, guided me directly to Jean Gary, a very friendly and well fed taxi driver. Jean Gary took me to a "safe" place I could wait for the others - a gas station restaurant with an armed juvenile "standing guard." The place bustled with Haitians - light and dark, young and old - Dominican and Cuban workers, and UN peacekeeping troops. For over an hour I wrote in my journal and consumed Goya cookies and bottled water - resisting the temptation to call home and explain that I was, in fact, "alone" in Haiti.

My fellow visitors did not make it that day. The first leg of my journey continued without them - but to say I did it alone would be incorrect. With the help of many kind Haitians, I made it to the other airport, booked a flight to Les Cayes and arrived safely there that evening. By night-fall, I had joined Fr. Marc, some volunteers and Pwoje Espwa employees for a feast and a glass of good 5-star rum. I texted my dad that I had made it safely - within a few days I confessed I had made it "alone." Within a few more days, with my guts in a knot, I confessed my adamant intent to return as a volunteer and live at Vilaj Espwa.

Independence, though something all parents must cultivate and nurture in their children, must be a terrifying thing to watch grow. That understood - my job over the next couple months goes beyond fundraising and organizing to move to Haiti. It must be apparent that I take this next step in my life's journey with great consciousness - that my parents realize what I understand: I know where I am.

Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Down a Country Road


Somewhere in southern Haiti, over one hundred miles from Port-au-Prince, ten minutes drive from a dazzling bay, and down a rocky country road lies a modest expanse of hope called Vilaj Espwa. Within the bounds of this place, girls giggle as they run to class, an older boy cuts a younger boy’s hair, housemothers scrub their laundry, someone’s welding something, painting something, building something, and someone’s eating. Espwa – Haitian Creole for “hope” – blossoms here under the careful governance of Fr. Marc Boisvert.

Vilaj Espwa is a part of Pwoje Espwa – a project that finds its home in a forgotten corner of the Western Hemisphere where, aside from the trucks and the odd rice farmer chatting on his mobile, time seems to have stopped - over a hundred years ago. Fr. Marc moved to Haiti over eight years ago and began by taking in fifteen needy kids. His organization now serves the various needs of over 1,000 children in Les Cayes and the surrounding areas.

At the end of December 2006, I will move down to Haiti to contribute in any way I can. The next few months will be filled with fundraising, sharing Haiti’s story and photographs from my recent trip, and telling of the impact espwa has on a poverty-stricken country.

Monday, September 25, 2006

What We See

"Inside the Frame" will join the information tsunami to contribute yet one more perspective. Perhaps the stories told and the images shown here will capture something left in someone else's periphery.

A faithful documentation or an image burned into film beg to be believed. History tells us what was so and images show us what was so. What better source for truth than written words of an honest witness or irrefutable pictures captured by a photographer? These are the best instruments of testimony available today. These are all we have - and these are, as humans are, imperfect.

The witness only recounts that which he finds relevant. The photographer only captures that which he finds worthy. What gets left out of the frame?